Due for Shots? Maybe Not!
Last blog we discussed the core canine diseases and the effectiveness of their vaccines. Fortunately, the vaccines for all four canine core diseases are very effective at preventing disease. The immunity that the dog’s body develops in response to vaccination for these diseases is also quite long-lived, lasting for several years, if not for the life of the dog.
Vaccination policy is also finally starting to reflect the science of immunology, with many vets moving to a 3-year vaccination schedule rather than revaccinating yearly. Some veterinarians have even adopted a more conservative approach, administering only the puppy series, a booster shot at a year, and then the rabies vaccine as required by law.
When To Vaccinate Dogs
To provide maximum benefit, dog vaccines must be administered properly. For puppies, this means administering a vaccine just as maternal antibodies (antibodies received from the dam through her colostrum) wane; otherwise, the antibodies received from the dam interfere with the virus particles or proteins in the dog vaccine, and immunity is not achieved. This can then leave the owner with a false sense of security, thinking their puppies are protected by the vaccine when they really are still at risk of contracting parvo or distemper. If maternal immunity has already waned completely, the puppy is also at risk for contracting these life-threatening diseases until vaccinated.
Below is the dog vaccination schedule recommended by Dr. Jean Dodds, one of the premier experts in canine immunology and vaccine reactions. Her comments are also included in the far right column.
Diagram from: http://www.weim.net/emberweims/Vaccine.html
Picking Up A Puppy?
Maternal antibodies do not begin to wane until between 9-14 weeks of age. Thus, current recommendations suggest that the first canine parvovirus/distemper vaccine be given at 9 weeks of age, with the next dose given 3-4 weeks later, and the last dose given after 16 weeks. There are some veterinarians such as Dr. Ronald Schultz who take an even more conservative approachto puppy shots, administering one or two vaccines after 12 weeks of age.
Why wait until after 8 weeks of age? This is because taking 6 to 8 week-old-puppies to the vet’s office for vaccinations does nothing but expose these puppies to the highly contagious diseases present at the veterinarian’s (such as parvovirus). When administered so early in the puppy’s life, the vaccine will do little to stimulate immunity, rendering the vaccine worthless. Additionally, the distemper component of the vaccine can have numerous side effects if given prior to 8 weeks of age.
What about older dogs?
If your dog has already completed its initial puppy shots for distemper and parvovirus, and has had a distemper/parvo booster at one year, then further revaccination is unnecessary for most dogs. A titer test can be performed to determine your dog’s current antibody levels, and to determine if your adult dog actually needs another vaccination or not. The presence of antibodies indicates that your dog has formed the memory cells necessary to mount an immune response upon exposure to that disease, and is therefore considered “immune” to that disease. Titer tests do cost more than a simple vaccination, but performing a simple titer test can prevent the heartbreak of debilitating adverse vaccine reactions.
What about rabies?
By law, the rabies vaccine must be administered every three years in most states. Annual revaccination for rabies is not only unnecessary, but can be incredibly harmful. Rabies vaccines have been linked to a host of adverse reactions, some of which are irreversible. Please note that the rabies vaccine should be given separately from other shots. Unfortunately, many veterinarians lump all dog vaccines together during a visit; this practice dramatically increases the risk of an adverse reaction to a vaccine. Further information on vaccinating more safely for rabies can be found here.
Why only distemper/parvo vaccines, and not combination shots?
As we covered in the last blog, dogs are primarily at risk from only a few viral diseases, chiefly distemper, parvovirus, and rabies. These are the primary vaccinations that all dogs need in order to be protected. Most combination shots (commonly called 5-way, 6-way, or 7-way shots) lump non-core diseases in with the core diseases, mixing short-lived and ineffective bacterial components with the long-lived, effective viral components.
Not only do combination shots contain components that most dogs do not actually need, but they also can dramatically increase the risk of adverse reactions. Additionally, those polyvalent combo shots have also been shown to significantly suppress the canine immune system for a period of time post-vaccination.
Next blog we will cover the non-core diseases and their vaccines, and then will end our Vaccination Series with tips on making vaccinations safer for your dog. Armed with this information, you and your veterinarian should be able to create a custom dog vaccination schedule for your particular dog that is safe, simple, scientifically valid, and effective.
When “shopping” for a vet should one ask if the vet gives combination shots? Or ask a more generalized question of what his/her shot practices are? Im in the homework stage of my GSD and something I want to cover before even finding a breeder to work with is “shopping” for a vet to take my pup to. Also, what are other questions one should ask a vet before choosing them? I wont take my children to just any doctor and do not plan to take my pup to just any vet. Word of mouth is iffy in my area because I do not know anyone in my area who has/is planning to title their dog; ive already received greif for researching as much as I have becuz “things like that dont really matter, its just a dog”. Thank you in advance for any help!
Hi Lydia,
You are right: finding a good vet is VERY important, because they will be a partner in your dog’s care for its lifetime. This is even more important when you have a dog you want to trial/compete with, which many people don’t understand unless they also have an additional vested interest in their dog (show, trial, working, hunting, etc.) besides it just being a companion .
You can always check for a more holistic vet in your area using the AHVMA site: http://www.ahvma.org/Widgets/FindVet.html
I completely understand about word of mouth being iffy. The first vet I found in my area for my dog was recommended to me by someone who had German Shepherds and had used this vet for years. We went there once, and I was not very pleased. I ended up using a different vet recommended by a Doberman breeder who was very, very particular about who she let work on her dogs. I knew that if this breeder liked this vet, she was a good vet (and she is now my dog’s vet, and we both love her!).
You want to do as much research as you can on the available vets before selecting the one (or ones) you want to meet, since you may have to schedule an ‘office visit’ (and pay for it) in order to have that one-on-one time with the vet. Most will not have the time to answer questions on the phone, but you can call and ask questions of the receptionist, explaining that you are going to be getting a new puppy and are looking for a new vet. See what they say, if they promote their clinic or seem friendly to new clients, if they offer to answer questions, or offer to have you come in and meet the vet, etc. If they seem rude and abrupt and unwelcoming, then…if the vet’s experience is worth it, fine, but if the vet is just so-so, consider moving on. But it could also be that the receptionist is having a bad day, or it’s really busy in there at the moment, etc. You can always ask if there is a less busy time for you to call or drop by, and see if they are still just as rude.
It is important to find someone who has experience with working dogs and canine athletes. They will be much more mindful of treating your dog as an athlete, not just as a pet. This also should mean that they understand the value of keeping a dog intact for competition, and won’t be pushing you to neuter your animal by 6 months of age. But it should also mean that they have more experience with sports-related injuries than other vets, and this is important for working and competition dogs since that is they type of injury they would most likely incur.
Ask about their experience with strong, assertive breeds like the German Shepherd Dog. Do they enjoy the breed, or are at least neutral toward them? Nothing is more frustrating than a vet who clearly dislikes GSDs, and takes every opportunity to “blame” something on the dog being a GSD, instead of looking for the real cause (“Oh, GSDs all have skin problems”, “Oh, GSDs are known for _____”, etc.). There is a difference between explaining that a current issue is common in GSDs (such as pano in growing puppies, etc.), and blaming an issue on the dog *because* it is a GSD.
Check out the other components of the clinic when you visit. Does it seem fairly clean? What about the waiting room: is this vet selling product and poor quality (yet expensive) commercial diets like Science Diet? Or do they carry high quality foods, even raw food? Or no food at all (it’s so refreshing to find a vet who does not push commercial pet food!)? Observe their staff and how the staff interacts with clients and their dogs. Do they treat the clients respectfully, explain treatments and options thoroughly, or are they pushy, condescending, uninformative, unwelcoming? Do they push clients into surrendering their dogs so they can “just take them in back for a little bit” (where you now have no idea of what they are doing or how they are treating your dog), or do they work to keep the dog and client together as much as possible? Do they understand canine behavior, or do they approach the dogs improperly, even aggressively (moving toward them quickly, standing over them to greet them, grabbing them and holding them down with unnecessary force)? You might be surprised at the number of vet techs who do not know how to properly approach a strong, assertive, aloof breed like the GSD, inadvertently creating conflict and even aggression in the dog. The vets themselves may be great, but the staff will also be interacting with your dog, so you want to be somewhat comfortable with them.
Ask about their recommended vaccination protocol, and then let them talk. This will give you an idea of whether they are up-to-date on vaccination protocols, or if they are still pushing unnecessary shots. What do they do if a client has a dog with special needs, or if the client wants to follow a modified vaccination schedule? This will give you an idea if they are willing to work with their clients to create a customized schedule, or if they still try and fit everyone into the same shot schedule. You may not be able to find a vet who doesn’t give the 5-in-1 shots in your area, but you can hopefully find one who will be willing to get just the Distemper-Parvo shot for your dog.
You can do the same with diet. Ask them about what foods they like the best, and why. You can just let them explain (even if you don’t agree with their recommendations), and that will give you some valuable information. Are they just pushing the foods they sell in their clinic? Do they seem to think that all commercial foods are equal, so it doesn’t matter what you feed? Or do they show an understanding of good nutrition, particularly for a canine athlete? It is also important to see what they say about feeding a large breed puppy like the GSD. You can ask if they have any clients feeding a homemade or raw diet to their dogs; their response should give you an idea of whether or not they are at least open/accepting of their clients’ choice to feed a different diet.
You can also ask about treatments and therapies they can do in-house at their clinic: x-rays, surgeries, any therapy treatments (cold laser, ultrasound, hydrotherapy, etc.). Give them a chance to explain what they have to offer and what they can do (or can’t do at their clinic). This just gives you a better idea of what they can and can’t do in-house for you later (such as OFA hip/elbow x-rays, etc.). Also, what do they do for after-hours emergencies?
I hope this helps! One of the biggest things is that *you* feel comfortable with the vet and their experience and capabilities. Are you both comfortable talking to each other, or are you strained and tense? Are they comfortable with you asking questions, and do they take the time to answer your questions thoroughly? Are they patient with you, or do they seem busy/rushed/impatient?
You need to be able to trust them, and trust that they will respect you and respect your wishes; if the vet or their staff are not giving you this respect and are making you feel uncomfortable, then that’s probably not a good match. Go with your gut, too–if you have this gut feeling that something is “off”, it probably is. Don’t ignore that important sense of “something is not right”!
Best of luck to you,
Carissa